Why Is Surfing Important to Hawaii?

Why is surfing important to Hawaii? Well, we’re so glad you asked. If Hawaii had a heartbeat, it would sound a lot like waves rolling onto shore. Surfing isn’t just something people do here. It’s a way of life. Heck, we’ve even seen signs in storefronts that say “Closed for Good Surf”. So if you’re wondering why everyone from six-year-olds to silver-haired grandmas and grandpas seems to own a board, wax it lovingly, and know the tide table by heart, you’re about to find out.

Surfing in Hawaii isn’t just about the sport. It’s about the soul.

Let’s wax down that board, and discuss the answer to why is surfing important to Hawaii…

Why is Surfing Important to Hawaii: Born in the Islands, Raised Around the World

Let’s start with the basics: Surfing was invented in Hawaii. Not California, not Australia, not wherever your high school crush moved to after graduation to “find themselves.” Hawaii.

Long before there were GoPros or Red Bull-sponsored surfers, Native Hawaiians were riding waves on solid wooden boards carved from koa trees. The earliest Western accounts of surfing in Hawaii come from the late 1700s, when the crew of Captain James Cook stumbled upon local Hawaiians catching waves with effortlessness and ease.

But it wasn’t just sport—surfing (or heʻe nalu) was woven into Hawaiian life. The ocean wasn’t just a backdrop to island life; it was alive, with its own moods, gods, and mana (spiritual power). To surf was to connect to that energy, to ride nature rather than resist it. 

When Western colonization reached Hawaii, surfing nearly disappeared under missionary disapproval and cultural erasure. But it survived—barely—and in the 20th century, it experienced a renaissance led by legendary watermen like Duke Kahanamoku, who didn’t just win Olympic medals in swimming but introduced the world to surfing as a graceful, thrilling pursuit. 

Why Is Hawaii Separate in Surfing?

Okay, now for the technical side. If you’ve ever peeked into the competitive surf world (or got very confused while watching the World Surf League with a friend who yells “SICK BARREL” like it's a sports term), you might’ve noticed something: Hawaii is separate. The lifestyle around surfing here is a little different than in other places, and it’s something you really have to experience to fully understand.

The Modern Surf Renaissance (and How You Fit In)

We’re living in a new era of surf stoke. More people are picking up boards than ever before. More women. More kids. More people of all backgrounds. And Hawaii is still at the heart of it—still leading with culture and stoke and a certain magic that doesn’t translate into words, but man, you feel it when you catch your first wave.

But here’s the truth: surfing in Hawaii can also be intimidating.

The waves are bigger. The etiquette is stricter. And nobody wants to be “that tourist” dropping in on a local. That’s where a surf lesson becomes more than just a vacation photo op. It’s your ticket to understanding the flow, learning the rules, and catching waves with confidence—not fear.

And if you're going to learn, you may as well do it from the best.

Get a Taste of the Surf Lifestyle: Take a Lesson with Big Wave Dave

You’ve read the history. You’ve felt the call. Maybe you even stood up on a board once, wobbled, and fell into saltwater with a goofy grin. But now’s your moment to actually step into the story.

Big Wave Dave, a Waikiki icon, offers the kind of surf lessons that go beyond instruction. The crew here doesn’t just teach you to stand up—they teach you to feel the ocean. To understand the lineup. To paddle out with respect and paddle back in with joy. Whether you're a total beginner or someone looking to level up, they’ve got the vibe, the experience, and the aloha to guide your journey.

And after everything you’ve just read? That kind of guidance feels… necessary. Right.

Surfing in Hawaii isn’t something to tick off a bucket list. It’s a doorway. And Big Wave Dave? They’re standing at the entrance with a board, a smile, and the words: “Let’s go ride.”

So, why is surfing important to Hawaii?

Because it’s where it began. Because it’s how the ocean speaks here. And because, once you stand on a board in Hawaiian water—even just for a second—you’ll understand a part of this place no guidebook could ever explain.

Grab your board. Your journey’s about to begin.